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1879 - 1881
Eureka Springs 1879-1881
In the Beginning
One of the first men reported to have been at the healing springs was Dr. Alvah Jackson who brought his son there to cure his eye disease. The internal and external use of the spring water was effective in the cure.
Dr. Jackson then recommended that his friend Judge Saunders pursue a water treatment. The Judge went to the spring in May of 1879 and while there taking the “cure.” he recalled a Cherokee Indian who he had encountered in 1835 during the “Trail of Tears,” had told him about a healing spring located in North Arkansas on a tributary of the White River. Several years later, the Judge, while conversing with a Spaniard, was told the story of a Great World Healing Spring.
Judge Saunders remained there under a tent for nearly two months during which time he was cured of his disease, lost 40 pounds, and his yellow-whitish hair turned black with new growth.
On a later occasion, the Judge suggested to Dr. Jackson, that with the increased notoriety of the waters and new folks arriving each day, that the area should be called Jackson Springs. The Doctor rebutted, "No, it should be called Saunders Springs."
With that, young Buck Saunders jumped up and exclaimed, “Eureka! — I found it!” — claiming that was what Ponce de Leon called the Fountain of Youth in the book he was reading. Thereafter, the site, memorialing the land of healing springs, became known as Eureka Springs.
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On July 4, 1879, as a result of word having sifted out to nearby communities, approximately 400 challenged, crippled, and diseased individuals and their family members were celebrating the nation’s independence while sipping and bathing in the spring waters where a basin had been scooped out centuries before – presumably by Indian predecessors that had in years past vanished from the area..
A First: Judge Saunders held forth while living in a shanty shelter that he had constructed from the soon to be disappearing forest of trees. His son, Buck, is known for the naming of Eureka Springs and erecting the first dwelling.
More word reached out to people in other states. More springs were being discovered and the hillsides became a large camp ground where people sought cures for their illnesses while living in tents, covered wagons, quickly built shanties, or just under the stars. At first, it was like a big picnic with people having nothing to do but gather together in conversation. The hillsides were dotted with campfires when the sun went down.
A First: Before long preachers dropped by and organized open-air prayer sessions. The First Gospel was presented by Rev. Phillip Clark at Basin Spring Park. He later organized the Christian Church.
A First: The first death occurred when a tree fell upon the wife of Professor Clark of Berryville.
A First: The first business established was a grocery owned by O. D. Thornton who brought in teams hauling supplies. Visitors to the springs never knew how long they would be staying and would run short of food and other items.
A First: Neighboring sawmills, which had already been in operation were owned by Mr. Massman and another by Mr. VanWinkle. Realizing the need for construction, it was not long before they became the first suppliers of lumber for new dwellings.
A First: The first Boarding House was operated by Mrs. King. More visitors resulted in more boarding houses.
A First: People having an extended stay in the hills and hollows surrounding the springs began petitioning for a Post Office in order to get mail. The First Postmaster was Dr. McCarthy who was jailed for Fraud in the next year.
By August 1879, there were 30 houses that had been built, while there were still many tents spread throughout the spring area.
When governance seemed necessary, a Council was formed and they appointed J.N. Armstrong as Surveyor. It was his job to lay out lots measuring 40' by 40' and streets that were 30' wide with streets no closer than 80' to a parallel street. This layout was established in the neighborhood of the springs. Lots were portioned out to anyone putting up a dollar for a land receipt. A continual flow of visitors arrived and soon learned to follow the Surveyor around during his measurements and would grab a lot as soon as the measurement chains were lifted. The Surveyor, however, began selling the same lot over again resulting in many contests that needed to be settled by the Council. The Surveyor was eventually relieved for his trespasses.
A First: The First Street laid out was below Basin Spring – named Main Street – running North and South upon the floor of the Gulch. Eventually it was called Mud Street – because of its low elevation, much water drained into it.
A First: The first bath house was built by Dr Jackson’s son — T. Jackson.
A First: The first hotels built were:
City Hotel managed by Mrs Charles – Spring Street
Eureka House managed by Mr. Bragg – Spring Street
Planter’s House and Gilmore House located on Main Street
Southern Hotel built by L.M Rainey was below the Basin Spring on Main Street (See Photo at Right)
By January 1880, the population estimate was 1000 people. Boarding houses were being built to help accommodate their needs. With ongoing and ever increasing publicity people started arriving from all over the United States.
A First: The first newspaper was “The Echo” owned by H.J. Hadley. It was a tabloid that listed testimonials of people describing their illnesses and their cures. It wasn’t long before the weekly became a semi-weekly.
A First: More and more problems developed. Farmers wanted land to farm while Miners wanted land to dig. The first stock company was the Blue Springs Mining Company which began registering the mineral rights on all lands around the known springs.
By April 1880, the population estimate ranged from 5000 to 8000 people
A First: The first industry was a manufacturer of canes. Red Cedar branches were cut with a hand knife and sold as walking sticks. It wasn’t long before demand required the purchase of a lathe to mass produce canes and sticks.
A First: The first Church under construction was the Christian Church.
A First: The first water production company was the Eureka Water Shipping Co. owned by John S. Tibbs.
Promoters and Investors began arriving. They began acquiring lots from the turnover of cured who were going back to their home states. Small “towns” began breaking ground around the new Springs that were being found. Eureka became the focal point of the nearby “towns” as the hills and valleys were being stripped of trees and foliage.
A First: The first town election took place.
A First: First Mayor was E. Rosson
A First: First Marshal was William Kimbrough
A First: First Verdict was against T. Mallet who was fined $500 and one year in jail.
Thousands more were arriving. More and more problems were taking place between the Farmers and the Miners. More and more "Claims Jumping" had to be settled. Possession became “Nine-tenths of the Law.” Even if clothing were taken, if a person had more than one shirt — the sentiment was that he shouldn’t have had it. The new wearer became the proud possessor and owner.
Eureka had a new sound about it. A roaring clamor could be heard from the rattling of wagon wheels, the chopping of trees, the nailing of boards, the falling of trees, the dynamiting of rock formations, hammers, saws, bells, and the barking and howling of dogs.
The Town then covered an area of one and half miles long by one mile wide.
A First: The first thoroughfares were Main Street, Spring Street, and Mountain Street. There were hundreds of foot paths that led from Spring to Spring.
Four separate communities had developed around the following springs.
Basin Spring
Harding Spring
South Eureka
A development called Evansville sported the best hotel (the Ponce de Leon, later named the St. Charles) was located next to Iron Spring.
The Post Office was moved from Main Street to Spring Street.
The Opera House was opened by Holloman
The City Hall was opened by Maddox
The Metropolitan Hotel and Hancock House opened on Spring Street.
By August 1880, signs of More Fraud: The first mayor, Rosson, was impeached. Capt. John Clark was appointed Mayor, J.J. Kirk was appointed Marshal.
A First: The First School was Eureka Academy owned by Mr. Johnson.
A Second Newspaper began production as the “Morning Herald” owned by Hinman.
By September 1880, the population estimate was 15,000 people.
Concern for the Springs became paramount. The Mining companies were dirtying the water and digging shafts adjacent to the Springs. A vigilante group with Council approval took things in their own hands and filled up all the shafts putting the Miner’s temporarily out of business.
A First: First Exhibition. The “Eureka Baby.” While digging a well, J.B. Hallom struck an object that appeared to be a baby covered with a hardened crust. He brought it to his house and put it on exhibition charging 15 cents for a viewing, which was later increased to 25 cents. When required to have the “Baby” examined, he agreed and on removing the covering from the skin, the body form weighed 85 pounds measuring 2-feet, 2-inches with a dark skin.
A First: The first completed church was by the Catholic priest Father Smythe.
The Winter of 1880, was severely cold causing many folks to leave, while others stayed to prevent their claims from being jumped.
A telegraph line and office was installed.
During the Spring of 1881, joyous crowds of former invalids gathered at the springs in celebrating their cures.
New investors arrived to buy up shanty-lands and began building the first “mansion” style residences.
Perry Hotel — Thomas Perry of Colorado purchased the lot (Note: Most likely two 40-foot wide lots) near the Basin Spring for $2500 and began construction of his hotel which measured 56 feet by 80 feet standing 5 stories high. ( Note: Because of the rather steep purchase price, it is likely that the lot(s) had already been improved upon by Judge Saunders -- as suggested by other historians.) (Note: The Perry Hotel burned down in 1890 and was later replaced by the Basin Park Hotel in 1905.)
Across from the Perry Hotel was the City Hotel which was enlarged by Tanner making it 3-stories high with a basement.
A V-shaped office building at the fork of Spring and Center streets was built by Mr. Blankenship. (later known as the Flat Iron Building)
The Hancock House was enlarged by Dr. Spruill
Streets began to Criss-Cross, bringing the Four Communities and smaller “Spring Towns” into one Network — Eureka Springs.
With the second Town Election, Capt John Carroll became Mayor.
Secret "Social Orders" began forming: Free Masons, Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias.
Many caves were being discovered
The Rock House “house-in-a-cave” was built by Major Cooper who charged an admission fee for sightseers to view it
By July 1881, the population estimate was 18,000 people. (Note: U.S. Census reporting evidently recorded only those claiming local citizenry as seen near bottom of this page)
Streets were improved upon by being graded and widened
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The above information was prepared by Dan Ellis being excerpts from:
L.J. Kalklosch, “The Healing Fountain,” 1881.
Kalklosh was a Berryville school teacher who kept a diary of Eureka Springs events. During the founding years of Eureka Springs he operated a Realty and Lending company.
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Eureka Springs of 1881 as portrayed by Cora Pinkley Call in 1930
Newspapers in 1881:
Daily Dispatch, E.M. Linzee and S. L. Butler;
Eureka Springs Echo, Nickell and Lowe;
Eureka Springs Herald, D. L. Grace.
Businesses in 1881:
57 boarding houses and hotels
33 grocery stores
12 saloons
12 real estate offices
12 real estate agents
22 doctors
1 undertaker
1 bank
The Post Office was located at the corner of Spring and Short streets with T. M. Johnson as postmaster.
The Baptist Church held services in the Opera House, with Rev. Hiram, pastor.
The Christian Church was located at the corner of Pine and Owen streets, with Samuel Hockins, an elder.
The Presbyterian Church was located at the corner of Mountain and Spring streets, with Rev. Mc Elwee, pastor.
The Methodist Episcopal Church-South was located on Eureka Street, with Samuel N. Burns, pastor.
The First Methodist Episcopal Church was located on Elk street, with Rev. O. R. Bryant, pastor.
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In 1881, a combined public Directory, published by Dougherty and Sarchet, served the first five cities of Arkansas — Little Rock, Hot Springs, Pine Bluff, Eureka Springs and Ft. Smith.
Eureka Springs was described as follows:
"Of Eureka Springs, during the past year, much has heen said for and against its claims as the great healing fountain the Siloam of the Afflicted. Having included this now rapidly growing city in our Directory, it becomes us to give it the prominence it deserves as a great watering place. The spasmodic growth of this place during the past year has no parallel in the history of watering places. As the mission of this book is to give plain statement of facts, it is not our intention to go into an elaborate nor exaggerated description of the so-called 'Magic City' like the average historian, whose number are legion, and whose ambition appears to be the panorama description of the place, disregarding any and all disadvantages or disagreeable facts pertaining to the 'city of healing waters.'
Eureka Springs is situated in the White river mountains in Carroll County, Arkansas. It is over 1750 feet above the level of the sea. The climate is claimed to be mild in winter and delightfully pleasant in summer. The nights, during the summer months, are similar to those enjoyed by residents of 'The Golden State.' This place, as yet, can hardly claim the name of a city — it is in fact more properly a 'great camp' although a few years hence, should the tide of its population continue with the flood now pouring into it, it will soon be far above rivals, not only as as a watering place, but as a great city.
“The streets are very narrow, precipitous and serpentine.
“The location of ‘Eureka' is picturesque in the extreme, being scattered over the mountain tops, clinging to the mountain sides, and nestling in the great gorges, that extends in various directions in the wide spread corporate limits of the city.
"The buildings are, as yet, of little or no consequence as models of architecture, the greater number being rudely completed of pine lumber with more view to a hasty occupancy than convenience and stability. The cost of living is as reasonable here as in any city East or South.
“First-class hotels are not numerous. (However,) — Boarding houses are numerous and differ muchly as to their accommodations. The visitor can be suited according to his or her means as to cost of living.
"There are, in the immediate vicinity, some fifty springs, all containing more or less medicinal properties. There are seven principal springs, which have become noted for their health giving qualities, namely: Little Eureka, Basin, Harding, Johnson, Arsenic, Oil, Crescent, Sulphur and Iron springs. The above named springs have gained a world-wide notoriety for the marvelous cures of the various blood and skin diseases, also for a number of miraculous cases of restoring sight to the blind, and completely curing nearly all cases of sore eyes.
"The question will be asked by all who hear of these wonderful springs: What diseases will they cure? The following diseases have been known to be benefited, and in many cases radical cures affected, when given proper time and attention; Rheumatism, Cancer, Sore Eyes, Dyspepsia, Kidney Diseases, Liver Complaints, Scrofula, Catarrh, Paralysis, Ulcers, Asthma, Piles and other diseases peculiar to an impure condition of the blood. Bright's Disease has been entirely cured by use of these waters.
"While the winters are mild in this region, they are not the best time to visit the springs. Between April and November will suit all classes of diseases best. No one need be afraid to go on account of the hot weather. The sun shines warm, to be sure, in mid summer, but the nights are always cool and from the great purity of the air, good sleep is always insured. Such sound sleep as is always obtainable here in the cool nights of the hot season, contributes very greatly to the restoration of the afflicted. There is a prejudice quite prevalent among the people who live at the Springs against the employment of a physician by those who are using the waters. People come to try the effects of the water whom no power on earth can save from an early death; others come afflicted with complaints which are incurable by any known means, and after staying awhile go away and in some instances denounce the springs as a humbug.
"From the North, East and West — the springs (Eureka Springs) can be easiest reached via St. Louis, (MO;) thence over the St. Louis line and San Francisco line. From this point, Conant and Company's Stage Line and a number of hacks and private conveyances carry the traveler over the remaining eighteen miles to the Springs."
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Eureka Springs Current Data (2007)
Latitude:
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36º24'04"N
Longitude: 093º44'16"W
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Elevation:
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1,329 feet
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Area:
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6.8 square miles (2000 Census)
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Population:
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2,278 (2000 Census)
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Incorporation Date:
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August 16, 1881
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Historical Population as per the U.S. Census:
1810
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1820
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1830
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1840
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1850
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1860
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1870
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1880
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1890
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1900
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-
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-
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-
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-
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-
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-
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-
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3,984
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3,706
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3,572
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1910
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1920
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1930
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1940
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1950
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1960
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1970
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1980
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1990
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2000
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3,228
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2,429
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2,276
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1,770
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1,958
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1,437
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1,670
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1,989
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1,900
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2,278
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Carroll County — as posted: 4/21/2006
Region:
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Northwest
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County Seats:
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Berryville & Eureka Springs
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Established:
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November 1, 1833
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Parent County:
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Izard – (Origination County)
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Population:
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25,357 (2000 Census)
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Area:
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630.3 square miles
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Historical Population as per the U.S. Census:
1810
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1820
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1830
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1840
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1850
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1860
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1870
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1880
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1890
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1900
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-
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-
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-
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2,844
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4,614
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9,383
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5,780
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13,337
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17,288
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18,848
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1910
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1920
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1930
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1940
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1950
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1960
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1970
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1980
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1990
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2000
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16,829
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17,786
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15,820
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14,737
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13,244
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11,284
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12,301
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16,203
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18,654
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25,357
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The above Census Information was extracted from the Carroll County Website:
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